In Bourgogne

Now at Le Rochepot, Cote D'Or, Bourgogne, Fr. Gite and wine farm of Dennis and Marie Fourqueround. Drove here Monday after dropping Minnesotans at CDG and a stop in Beaune, 20 km to the north.

This the heart Haut (high) Cote de Beaune wine region and there must be 25 little places advertising their wine production in this town of 200 – others are probably involved too. I thought they would be out of town, but it is a few houses in from the edge, and sits under the chateau de Le Rochepot. Stone and tile buildings of some age. The interior of this is too chintzy (with no chintz, but lots of décor of the type I can do without.) 6 channels of cable, no wifi or phone connection w/ Tmobile.

I heard cattle lowing as soon as I exited the car. There are 4 young people working on the harvest – I think that they are living out of trucks rather than in the very barebones bunkhouse across the road from here. Mssr. F. drove a red dump wagon in behind tractor and dumped it into a crusher in the yard and then pumped the juice into vats in the barn. This morning the sound of high pressure water cleaning out a plastic vat.

Last night the moon rose over the hill on the other side of the valley. The stars and planets shone brightly and I saw the Milky Way while sitting on the landing at the top of the stairs to the gite, despite 3 street lights burning within 50 yards of me. This is nearly at the height of the land in this area – will be tough getting home from cycling!

Went 8 km to a grocery and also bought a bottle of DF's top price wine (8.5 E) – white Saturnay (sp. ?), unlabeled but covered with a light layer of cave dust. It was good but not as good as the 6 E glass of chablis I had in Beaune. Then laundry (no clothes line right here), TV – including a cliche-ridden resistance vs. Nazi romance movie and then a great profile of Steve Reich, Californian contemporary composer.

9-29-09

Woke late and after breakfast worked on IF materials for 2 hours. Then got on cycle and rode to Beaune, first going up to the high ridge beyond the chateau. Along the ridge live peregrine falcons – I heard them and caught a glimpse out of the corner of my eye while eating lunch. Wonderful views, though slightly hazy.

In Beaune, I got cash, rode around, located the internet cafe and then when to the edge of town for the E.LECLERC superstore where I bought batteries and a thumb drive for backups. Back to Beaune for a glass of Pommard red (pinot noire) very tasty! Then back towards Le Rochepot – this time avoiding the climb up the cliffs. 50 km or so – the ride back not as challenging as I thought.

The vineyard helpers spent all day pressure-washing crates for grapes. One told me she is skipping school to do this and has done this for 4 years. They are staying in the bunkhouse – no electricity there – they have gas lamp. Hope to learn more tomorrow!

Today I worked for 2 hours and then  drove downhill and took off on the cycle for 4 hours- a combo of cycle routes, hills, next to canal riding and towns.  I just returned now to a cafe in Chagny with free wifi.  Stopped at a local sampling "cave" on the way in and had wonderful white and red burgundies.